Because he's worth it!

The Guardian (London) - Final Edition

August 26, 2010 Thursday

Spending: Life's little luxuries resist the downturn: Underwear, alcohol, pets and beauty treatments high on consumer shopping lists

BYLINE: Zoe Wood
According to the report, penny-pinching during the recession did not diminish our desire to look our best. Mintel's analysts highlight a growing preoccupation among adults with their appearance. Britons splashed out more than £13bn on trips to the hairdresser, make-up and other cosmetics last year - £216 per head.
We have spent 50% more on trips to hairdressing and beauty salons in the last decade while make-up sales have doubled to reach £1.3bn. The desire to invest in looking good is not a just a female condition with the men's grooming market now worth almost £850m last year, having grown nearly 50% over the same period.

WWD Supplements

June 18, 2010

THE BEAU IDEAL

BYLINE: Jennifer Weil; - with contributions by MOODBOARD

SECTION: MEN'S SPECIAL REPORT; Pg. 28 Vol. 199 No. 127 ISSN: 0149-5380

LENGTH: 2976 words
HIGHLIGHT: AS ONE OF THE FASTEST-GROWING MEN'S GROOMING MARKETS IN THE WORLD, EUROPE REPRESENTS NOT JUST A RED-HOT SALES OPPORTUNITY, BUT A TEMPLATE FOR BOOSTING GROWTH IN NORTH AMERICA, AS WELL.

The men's grooming and fragrance market is flexing its muscles in Europe, and a growing number of brands are taking interest.
Over the next few months alone, major players such as Chanel, Guerlain, Dolce & Gabbana, Davidoff and Marc Jacobs are introducing new masculine scents. Nuxe is among the brands recently launching treatment lines for men, while others like Gillette are bulking up such skin care offerings.
Gone are the days when a guy furtively applied his girlfriend's face cream behind closed doors. Today, European men are bolder, venturing in greater number to shop for their own brands of beauty—either in-store or online. They're not just snapping up the basics, either, but buying and using more sophisticated treatment offers.
“We're reaching what we'd call a tipping point,” says Jean-Jacques Lebel, executive vice president and managing director of L'Oréal's
Enhanced Coverage Linking

Consumer Products division. “Things are really happening in a big way. There's a point where there is a critical mass of men and word of mouth, and it's becoming absolutely acceptable for men to use men's products. It is now.”
There's a tradition of men in Europe (especially “Latin” Europe, such as France, Italy and Spain) wearing fragrance and, in some markets, like the U.K., ingrained grooming rituals.
“European men have a long-established reputation for appearance consciousness,” says Mark Whalley, Datamonitor consumer analyst. “Although this may be driven partially by cliché& evidence suggests that it has some basis in reality. Interestingly, however, at the same time, there is a certain degree of self-satisfaction and carefree-ness about many European males' attitudes and behaviors over their appearance. These seeming contradictions suggest that there remains a tension between feminized and traditional male values over appearance, but also that attitude-behavior gaps exist that suggest possible openings for industry players to further exploit men's appearance-management concerns.”
The men's grooming category in Europe is already sizeable. Euromonitor reports it pulled in $8.47 billion in retail sales last year in Western Europe, up 1.9 percent versus 2008. Lebel estimates the business has developed by 50 percent in five years.
“It's probably the fastest growing of most markets where we operate,” says Lebel.
These days, it is impossible to make vast generalizations about men's beauty buying habits across Europe. “Cultural barriers in certain European countries are lower, leading to a wider spread and more open [acceptance] of appearance-conscious attitudes and behaviors among men,” says Datamonitor's Whalley.
In a consumer survey the tracking firm conducted in Europe in April and May 2009, men were asked about the importance of looking their best in day-to-day life. Responses varied from country to country, with the percentage of guys answering “important” or “very important” coming in at 35 percent for Sweden, 39 percent for France, 40 percent for the U.K. and—topping the list—63 percent for Russia. The total global average was 53 percent for men versus 70 percent for women who were posed the same query.
Beiersdorf's Nivea for Men is another skin care brand notching up strong gains in Europe.
“Face care is growing by more than 10 percent,” says Inken Hollmann-Peters, international vice president for brand marketing at Beiersdorf, adding the segment is luring new (including older) consumers.
Overall, the men's grooming category's product development largely echoes the evolution of the women's treatment market—which became increasingly segmented—years ago. Executives note that, as of two to five years ago, there have been fewer barriers to entry.
“In the past, some men probably thought if they use a face cream, they wouldn't come across as very masculine,” says Hollmann-Peters, who explains that today, men equate looking good with being more successful in life. “So they're daring even more to take care of themselves.”
She adds Beiersdorf finds consumers in the U.S. (where the company has not yet entered men's categories such as hair care or deodorant) are not as sophisticated, in terms of their usage of care products, as some of their Western European counterparts.
“Whereas in France or the U.K. or Germany, antiage is much stronger,” says Hollmann-Peters.
Still, among marketers' greatest hurdles is getting European men to be even more adventuresome in the types of products they use. There have been some breakthroughs of late, with certain relatively sophisticated offerings being strong sellers in Europe. L'Oréal
Enhanced Coverage Linking

Paris' Men Expert Eye Roll-On, billed as a cooling product to fight wrinkles and under-eye bags, for instance, “is a great success,” says Lebel. “We're concentrating on skin care—[value-added] skin care—because we think that's where we can offer an edge.”
There's also a burgeoning men's deodorant business in Europe. Men Expert is introducing a short line of roll-ons and sprays with a 48-hour antiperspirant claim in parts of Western Europe.
“It's extremely promising,” says Lebel.
Meanwhile, this spring, Beiersdorf launched its high-tech Silver Protect line for men, whose products contain an antibacterial formula with silver molecules, to “excellent” results, says Hollmann-Peters.
Companies are focusing on aftershaves, as well. L'Oréal
Enhanced Coverage Linking

has a few products in the category, which it's leveraging as an extension of its skin care strength. Other personal care categories, such as shower products, are evolving, too. Beiersdorf last year introduced a three-in-one item, called Active 3, which the company claims to be the first in the segment with a triple benefit, including shave prep to facilitate body grooming.
While mass skin care continues its growth trajectory, the prestige treatment market has proven more challenging in Europe.
“We're reaching a tipping point,” says L'Oréal's
Enhanced Coverage Linking

Jean-Jacques Lebel, who estimates the business has grown 50 percent in five years. “Things are really happening in a big way.”
Philippe Benacin, chairman and chief executive officer of Inter Parfums SA, estimates the selective skin care market remains tiny and has been flat for a few years now.
Inter Parfums purchased high-end men's skin care brand Nickel in 2004. At the time, the prestige grooming segment for males was expected to grow at plus-15 or 20 percent annually, says Benacin. “We thought it would become something consistent, like 10 percent or 20 percent of the whole size of the skin care market. But actually, it has maybe stayed at 1 percent to 3 percent,” he explains.
Part of the sector's steep competition is due to the lure of lower price points of skin care for men in channels such as pharmacies and grocery stores.
“Men probably are not ready to spend as much for skin care as women are,” says Benacin. “On top of it, you have many newcomers, which makes it complicated to maintain market share at 7 or 8 or 10 [percent].”
Cultural differences account for the anemic sales, too. “Unlike in Asia—a major market where skin care is completely embedded in the male routine of beauty—Europe stops at shaving,” says Véronique Gabai-Pinksy, global brand president for Aramis and Designer Fragrances, BeautyBank and IdeaBank at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. “The challenge for us is to start educating the male consumer on how you can enhance the shaving experience and therefore compliment it with an element of treatment.”
In Europe, Lauder's Lab Series men's skin care brand rings up most of its sales in the shaving category, while treatment is a far second. (That differs from the U.S., where the brand's two most important categories are shaving and treatment. “Cleansing is a little less embedded in the culture or the habits,” Gabai-Pinsky says. “Body or hair care is not something that men necessarily buy in prestige.”)
The good news from Europe is that Lab Series is clocking double-digit gains. A recent hit is Lab Series' Max LS antiaging product. In May in Spain's El Corte Inglés, for instance, it was the department store's number-one stockkeeping unit in men's skin care. Gabai-Pinsky chalks its success up to the product's high-performance, one-product-does-all nature and single message.
She says Lauder is working on developing a product with benefits embedded in the shaving experience. Gabai-Pinsky notes that, when there's a product giving a variety of benefits and immediate results, “the European [male] consumer starts acting a little bit like the Asian consumer, and goes for it.”
That being said, there can be vast differences in shopping patterns from one European country—or even zone—to the next.
“It's much easier for me to develop my grooming and skin care business in continental Europe than it is in Russia, for example,” says Gabai-Pinsky. “There's very little knowledge, understanding or desire for this type of product in emerging Europe.”
The men's fragrance front appears somewhat brighter, with marketers reporting ample room for gains. Last year, its estimated size in Europe was $5.1 billion (with $3.06 billion generated from premium scents, the remainder from mass)—just less than half the estimated $10.1 billion for the European women's scent business, according to Datamonitor. The tracking firm expects the male segment to outpace the female category, with average yearly gains of 2.6 percent and 2 percent, respectively, through 2014.
The European men's prestige fragrance market has been flat on average over the last five years, estimates Benacin, who adds the European prestige women's fragrance market has been flat, as well.
“The market environment continues to be tough around the world and in Europe,” says Patrice Louvet, president of the P&G Global Prestige Products Division.
Executives note increased competition for prestige fragrances from other categories, such as technology. “The share of voice is very expensive—much more so than in the past,” says Philippe Benacin.
Executives note increased competition for prestige fragrances from other categories, such as technology, with the advent of iPhones, for instance.
“The share of voice is very expensive—much more than in the past,” says Benacin. “So it's more complicated to be seen.”
Meanwhile, strong trends in male prestige fragrance shopping keep bubbling up.
“Consumers gravitate to brands they know and trust, but well-rounded new propositions still generate significant momentum,” says Louvet. He highlights the continued success of P&G's classic lines, such as Hugo Boss Bottled, Hugo Man and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme. And when it comes to introductions over the past year and a half, Hugo Element, D&G's The One for Men, Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme and Lacoste Challenge boast top 10 to top 20 positions in most markets.
Some underline the importance of fragrance brands returning to their historic roots. Last fall, Aramis launched the Aramis Gentleman's Collection, which culls the brand's past scents. It has helped Aramis—whose overall business has grown by double digits in Europe this year—to remain in Europe's top 20. In the U.K., it ranks in the top five and in Germany's top 15, according to Gabai-Pinsky.
A major growth driver for the prestige fragrance category will be the BRIC markets, or Brazil, Russia, India and China, as its consumers become more sophisticated beauty product users. “We also believe that there is significant potential to further increase the total size of fragrance categories in the more developed markets by completing offerings across price tiers and product categories and forms,” says Louvet.
Executives point to a stronger emphasis on the men's prestige fragrance category, with a surge in the number of groups, plus the amount of money and creativity (in terms of product development and marketing), flooding the men's segment in Europe.
“[Companies] are investing as much as they used to invest in the women's sector for the launches,” says Eric Henry, Beauté Prestige International's chief operating officer, speaking of both fragrance and grooming. “Now, if you look at media, for instance, they are spending as much as they did for women's launches.”
In Europe, the French, German, U.K., Spanish and Italian markets generate almost 70 percent of all men's sales, estimates Henry.
Whether skin care or fragrance, successfully engaging men involves a different formula than for women. Simplicity, executives unanimously agree, is key.
“You shouldn't oversophisticate the market,” says Lebel. “You have to offer technology. You have to offer [products] which are high performance. Things have to remain simple, which is a challenge in itself. Making something very technological, very new and different, and yet simple—it's probably the biggest challenge.”
“What we've learned in Europe about simplification is something that we will effectively look into for the U.S.,” adds Gabai-Pinsky.
Other musts is that a product works quickly, is easy to use and involves simple gestures.
“It needs to be more performance oriented, more result oriented, very simple, right to the point, explaining what the problem is and giving right away the solution and high performance,” she continues.
The language used to talk to men about skin care benefits through advertising needs to meet their comfort zones, as well.
“Men want to know who you are, what you promise and why you are right for them,” says Louvet. “Differences only come out in the execution, where men prefer more straightforward and direct communication approaches. In the fragrance category, this demands particular skill, as we are not only talking to him, but at the same time, also to her—she buys almost half of all male fragrances, either as gifts or together with him.”
Nivea executives carefully chose the descriptor for the Revitalizing line, relaunched at the end of 2009. Had it been a product for women, it probably would have been marketed as an “antiwrinkle cream,” says Hollmann-Peters. “For men, it's more about the powerful revitalizing benefit and it's also linked to the Q-10 ingredient.
“Men want to look ‘healthy’ and ‘energized,’” she continues. Along the same lines, while some believe there could be a growing market for men's makeup (“everybody wants to look good,” says BPI's Henry), the word “makeup” is wrong for men.
“No man wants to be ‘made up,’” says Gabai-Pinsky. “Men want to be ‘enhanced’ and ‘handsome,’ so we have to reinvent the terminology.”
BPI's Jean Paul Gaultier has found a niche following for its men's color cosmetics, and other brands—such as Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent—have introduced items geared toward guys.
For advertising, executives say humor is important. (Think Axe/Lynx's zany spots.) And when it comes to choosing spokespeople for grooming or fragrance products, it's key to make men feel secure.
“It's not just girls who are insecure about the way they look—we need to be sensitive to the potential impact our advertising can have on the way guys feel about themselves,” says P&G's Louvet. “For example, attractive male models and celebrities with unattainable physiques make some men feel insecure and put them off buying the product. Depending on the segment you're talking to, it could be that you're much better to have a more ‘down-to-earth’ face of the brand, someone guys can relate to more easily. For other segments with different needs, they want to see the rock star or movie star they identify themselves with.”
The retail scene is still evolving in Europe, too. As elsewhere, men spend less time than women in-store and like to have a dedicated and one-stop shopping area with a clear assortment.
“What we need to define better in Europe is the point of sale experience,” says Gabai-Pinsky. “Europe is the most difficult market when it comes to effectively creating that destination for men. We have to find a way to carve some space on walls or on gondolas where men can be comfortable shopping.”
“You shouldn't oversophisticate the market,” says Lebel.& “Making something very technological, very new and different, and yet simple—it's probably the biggest challenge.”
“You still find a lot of shelves where you have the male products in the category's section, so you find the male deodorant in the overall deodorant section, and so on,” says Hollmann-Peters. “We know from research that men like to have one-stop shopping.”
One way Lauder has catered to some men's love of technology—and general dislike of having to speak too much with female sales associates—is by devising a small, handheld skin analyzer that immediately gives skin diagnostics.
“Because men are not necessarily comfortable shopping in the same environment as women and do not ask a lot of questions, the digital platform becomes absolutely essential,” says Gabai-Pinsky.
Men spend an average of 22 hours a week online and 60 percent of 15- to 50-year-old guys are members of a social network, according to Louvet. So the Internet is an especially effective realm to nab guys.
“Everywhere [Lab Series] is in e-commerce it is its biggest door, and it's something we're going to develop moving forward,” says Gabai-Pinsky, adding that's not to say Lauder won't pursue its brick-and-mortar strategy, as well. “We know that men go online to get information before they make the step of buying a product.”
BPI is selling online “huge quantities” of skin care for men, especially through Douglas' Web site. Beiersdorf, meantime, has dedicated part of its Nivea Web site to men's care, including product descriptions, and it can also touch upon topics such as cars.
Across the board, executives see a bright future in Europe for the men's fragrance and grooming categories, especially since the younger men coming into play are much less afraid of using products than their older counterparts. Concurrently, the aging population (which fighting the onslaught of time) holds great opportunity for skin care.“It's a market that's here to stay and [will] continue to grow,” says Lebel.

The Times (London)

October 28, 2010 Thursday
Edition 1;
National Edition

Men's grooming;
A growth industry

BYLINE: Alice Olins

SECTION: T2;FEATURES; Pg. 4,5

LENGTH: 293 words
1976
Clinique Skin Supplies for Men launches - only 8 years after the women's range. Today its top-selling product online is M Cover, a concealer. In 2002, the ClarinsMen range goes on sale with seven products. It now has 25.
1999
Mankind.co.uk begins selling men's grooming products online. Initially it stocks eight brands. Today it is one of the biggest retailers of its kind in the UK, with 200 brands and more than 3,500 products.
2003
Swinburne University in Melbourne, Australia, launches a make-up course for men. Students learn a variety of male-grooming techniques including how to conceal beard growth and eyebrow-shaping.
2003
JPG enters the men's grooming market with products including a complexion illuminator, eye pencil and a colourless nail-smoothing highlighter. In its first year a million products are sold around the world - one every four seconds.
2005
L'Oreal
Enhanced Coverage Linking

launches its Men Expert range. According to AC Nielson, the marketing research company, the men's skincare market is now growing at ten times the rate of the women's.
2006
Guyliner launches with two products: the Guyliner black kohl pencil and Manscara, men's mascara. There are now six products in the range, with two more in the pipeline for next year. There are also plans for a Guyliner skincare range.
2006
In four years the male-grooming market in the UK triples in value to an estimated £781 million.
Sales of men's body lotions, hair-removal and suncare products increase by 77 per cent over the same period.
2010
In a survey by Opinium Research, one in seven men admit to using products traditionally aimed at women, such as eyeliner, fake tan and spot or blemish concealer. Of those who wear make-up, 26 per cent do so at least once a week and 13 per cent daily.
Words: Alice Olins

Marketing

September 15, 2010

Men's grooming - Failure to clean up

SECTION: SECTOR INSIGHT; Pg. 30

LENGTH: 1203 words
The sector is diversifying as male consumers demand a wider range of products, but competition could drive down value, writes Jane Bainbridge.
Russell Brand has championed the tousled look while David Beckham
Enhanced Coverage Linking

prefers a more manicured style, but despite their different images, both require significant grooming to perfect their appearance. Following celebrity style was once an almost exclusively female preserve, but now men are finding themselves pressured to adopt the 'right' look.
The degree to which men embrace the concept of grooming is highly age-dependent. While younger men have grown up in an environment where attending to one's appearance means more than shaving and spraying on deodorant, older men are not necessarily at ease with such 'preening'.
One in five men aged between 16 and 24 regularly updates their look, with 18% saying they spend a lot of time on their appearance, according to Mintel. For this demographic, men's magazines and a wide range of male-specific products mean grooming is an inherent part of their lifestyle.
Most of the market is accounted for by core areas such as deodorants, shampoos and shaving preparations, but items such as facial moisturisers are gaining popularity and manufacturers are investing in NPD to maintain interest.
The male grooming market - which includes toiletries, skincare and haircare, but excludes fragrances and shavers/razors - will be worth an estimated pounds 484m in 2010, according to Mintel. However, it has been relatively static in recent years; value increased by just 3% over the past three years and last year value dipped slightly.
The recession has affected this sector in several ways. Sales through supermarkets have grown as bargain-hunting has become more prevalent, and this has had an impact on categories such as deodorants and shower products, which are more likely to be put on promotion. However, on the flip side, job insecurity may have helped other products such as cleansers and moisturisers, as men take more care and attention over their appearance.
Skincare is one of the fastest-growing categories in the men's grooming market, accounting for a quarter of sales, although deodorants remain the biggest sellers.
The practice of moisturising is becoming much more commonplace among men and the vast majority of new male face/neck products make hydration or moisturising claims. In the haircare category, men are more likely to consider their hair 'normal' than women, although they are concerned about dandruff and a significant proportion of NPD has been focused on anti-dandruff properties.
However, men's biggest worry regarding their hair is losing it - more than 6m consider it their primary hair concern (TGI), which suggests there is an opportunity for brands to introduce products combining hair-loss treatments. Indeed, L'Oreal
Enhanced Coverage Linking

has already introduced a thickening shampoo under its Elvive brand.
Unilever leads the male-grooming market and is especially strong in deodorants with brands such as Lynx, Sure for Men and Vaseline for Men This year it extended its popular Dove brand into men's products with the launch of Dove Men+Care range. Aimed at men aged 35 and above, it uses the positioning of 'being comfortable with who you are'.
In 2009, the company bought Sara Lee's personal care business meaning that brands such as Radox, Sanex and Bryclcreem joined its fold.
Procter & Gamble's Gillette brand has extended its shaving credentials with associated toiletries while Beiersdorf's Nivea has built a strong male line that it relaunched last year.
Bulldog, which was established in 2005 specifically as men's brand, has grown steadily and this year added Fairtrade products to its range.
When it comes to promoting products, there is a strong affiliation with sportsmen and sporting events. This helps to portray grooming as a masculine or even a macho activity and allay worries among men who are stuck with the perception that it's not manly to spend time on their appearance. Nivea for Men is an official supplier to the England football team while Ulltra has linked up with the Army to supply soldiers with its shaving and skincare products.
Younger men are expected to maintain their grooming habits as they age, while new generations of customers should ensure wider appeal of these products. Yet, as brands fight for market share, there is a risk price discounting could depress value. Mintel predicts the value of the market will grow to pounds 559m in 2015 - a 15% increase from 2010, but a decline of 13% when inflation is taken into account.
Men's-grooming products value sales by category
2010 (est) 2009 2008 %
pounds m % pounds m % pounds m % change
1 Toiletries* 271 56 264 56 266 57 1.5
2 Skincare** 123 25 115 25 119 25 3.3
3 Haircare*** 68 14 66 14 63 13 7.9
Other 23 5 23 5 22 5 4.5
Total 484 100 468 100 470 100 3.0
* Deodorants and body sprays, bath and shower products ** Shaving
preparations, facial moisturisers, self-tanners *** Hair colourants,
hair-styling products, shampoos, conditioners, and hair treatments
Includes bodycare, depilatories, suncare Data may not equal totals due
to rounding Source: Mintel

Men's toiletries manufacturers by value and share
2010 (est) 2009 2008 %
pounds m % pounds m % pounds m % change
1 Unilever 146 36 136 35 135 35 8.1
2 Procter & Gamble 83 20 78 20 92 24 -9.8
3 Beiersdorf 36 9 34 9 31 8 16.1
4 L'Oreal
Enhanced Coverage Linking

16 4 16 4 15 4 6.7

5 Sara Lee 16 4 19 5 19 5 -15.8
6 Coty 12 3 12 3 12 3 -
Other 40 10 43 11 39 10 -30.8
Own-label 60 15 50 13 42 11 42.9
Total 409 100 388 100 385 100 6.2
Source: Mintel

Men's-grooming product sales by type of outlet
2010 (est) 2009 2008 %
pounds m % pounds m % pounds m % change
1 Grocery* 198 41 192 41 178 38 11.2
2 Chemists** 194 40 190 41 202 43 -4.0
3 Drugstores 34 7 33 7 33 7 3.0
4 Department stores 29 6 28 6 38 8 -23.7
Other 29 6 25 5 19 4 52.6
Total 484 100 468 100 470 100 3.0
*Includes supermarkets ** Includes Boots Includes Space NK, standalone
men's toiletries shops, barber shops and online sales Source: Mintel

Women's Wear Daily(WWD)

July 15, 2010

American Crew Adds Recovery Foam

BYLINE: Matthew W. Evans

SECTION: 1; Pg. 12 Vol. 200 No. 10 ISSN: 0149-5380

LENGTH: 354 words
American crew, the men's hair salon brand, is looking to plump up its hair-thickening business with the September introduction of Hair Recovery Foam, a new addition to the brand's Trichology Hair Recovery System, which made its debut last fall.
Trichology Hair Recovery Foam is not designed as a styling aid. Rather, it is meant to be applied to areas of the scalp where the hair is thinning. It is designed to be applied after use of the existing Trichology Hair Recovery Shampoo as part of a two-step regimen.
Initially, the 150-ml. foam and 250-ml. shampoo will be sold together as a duo for $39.95. They will eventually be available separately at more than 2,000 salons in the U.S., with the foam priced at $39.95 and the shampoo at $11.95.
“It's an additional option for guys,” said George Accattato, international educator for American Crew, who noted the foam will not replace existing products in the four-item Trichology Hair Recovery System line. Aside from the shampoo, the Recovery System line includes a 60-count box of patches and 42- and 12-count boxes of ampoules, which contain a concentrate designed to be applied to the scalp.
“The foam will be the product that makes the most sense for guys to use,” said Accattato, who added that, “A lot of guys didn't get the patches,” which are designed to gradually release ingredient while they are worn for eight hours at night.
Like the existing Trichology Hair Recovery System items, the foam uses a combination of hops, rosemary, swertia japonica and silica, which is supposed to yield “fuller, thicker, stronger hair — and [prolonged] hair life,” according to the Denver-based firm.
Trichology Hair Recovery Foam could generate upward of $1 million in retail sales volume during its first year on the market, according to industry sources.
The Trichology Hair Recovery System marked American Crew's entry into the hair-thickening business and the collection is heavily promoted at americancrew.com with a campaign called “100 Real Questions: 100 Expert Answers About Hair Loss.”
Overall, American Crew is distributed in 50 countries and at 25,000-plus salons in the U.S.

No Body Hair Left Behind

BYLINE: By ANDREW ADAM NEWMAN

SECTION: Section E; Column 0; Style Desk; SKIN DEEP; Pg. 3

LENGTH: 1178 words
MARK BRYCE, the operations manager at a semi-trailer dealership in Grand Rapids, Mich., has lost most of the hair on his head, but he is ''really good at growing it everywhere else,'' particularly on his back, said his wife, Anna, a publicist for Amway. ''My husband is blond, so he doesn't look like a big hairy ape, but he does look like a golden retriever,'' she said.
For years, before the couple packed for the beach or a cruise, Ms. Bryce shaved her husband's back with a razor in the shower. Then one of her colleagues took a job with Remington, the shaver maker, and Ms. Bryce noticed on the company's Web site a new shaver with a telescoping handle for unaided trimming of back hair. She joked with her former colleague that her husband could use one.
Two months ago, it arrived in the mail.
''It works really well,'' Ms. Bryce said. ''He doesn't need my help with that anymore, which is nice because I have a lot of other stuff to do besides shave my husband's back.''
As hairless torsos have become the norm for male models and actors, below-the-neck hair removal has gone mainstream. The nascent category of body shavers has surpassed $10 million in annual sales, according to Nielsen data cited by Remington. But many men who aspire to the polished trunks of the ''Jersey Shore'' men face a dilemma when it comes to their backs: they don't want to undergo the expense of waxing or laser hair removal, but are embarrassed to ask others for assistance.
Enter the extendable Remington Body and Back Groomer, which came out last year and costs $39.99. It's an update of shorter Remington Body Groomers, which have sold briskly since being introduced in 2005.
To make the next-generation model, Remington conducted studies of men as they wielded various products to trim body hair. ''You haven't lived until you've been in a bathroom with a man watching him shave all his body parts,'' said Carl Kammer, director of new product development at Remington.
A competing product is the Mangroomer ($49.99), a rechargeable electric trimmer that resembles a back scratcher when fully extended. It was brought to market in 2006 by Brett Marut, a former equities trader, and is now sold in stores like Target, Wal-Mart and Bed, Bath & Beyond. It was, like so many products, created in order to solve a problem for its inventor: while Mr. Marut is no Sasquatch, he did have enough hair on his back that he was ''self-conscious about it at the beach,'' he said.
And there's the sort of razor-meets-back-scrubber approach. A product called Razorba, which costs $29.95 to $69.95 (depending on the model), is a hammer-shaped contraption that holds an embedded Gillette razor. It was invented by a video game programmer, Patrick Alphonso. He said that many customers told him that they were not necessarily averse to back hair, but that theirs grew so oddly that they felt compelled to take action. ''Some guys get like a Fu Manchu on their backs, and it's just stupid looking,'' Mr. Alphonso said.
Another option for the back is depilatory cream. Nair for Men has been on the market since 2001, and in 2008 the brand introduced a spray version ($6.99) that ''allows for no-touch application'' for ''those hard to reach places such as the back,'' according to marketing materials. The Nair for Men line has climbed steadily to about $4.5 million in annual revenue, according to Stacey Feldman, vice president for marketing at Church & Dwight, which makes the Nair products.
Research from Philips Norelco, which makes Bodygroom, a popular body razor, indicates that 47 percent of men use some method of below-the-neck tidying, while among men 18 to 29, 61 percent do. The most popular region to trim, according to the company, is the groin, followed by armpits, chest and back.
''Women universally are not keen on back hair, and when they talk about men's bodies that's one of the least attractive things,'' said Rose Cameron, who tracks men's grooming at the advertising agency Euro RSCG Chicago. ''It's like hair on women's thighs now -- it's just not done,'' she said.
Michael Yagudev, 21, an electrical engineering major at Stony Brook University, uses the Bodygroom on his entire trunk. While ''having a hairy body was a little more in style 10 or 20 years ago, now it's sexy to be more bare,'' he said. ''The male supermodels are completely bare.''
Mr. Yagudev, who said that he has so much body hair on his untrimmed arms and legs that ''mosquitoes can't reach all the way down to my skin,'' took part in a promotional event for Philips Norelco in April. Along with several other men, he appeared shirtless on a stage in Madison Square Park in Manhattan, where the actress Carmen Electra used a Bodygroom to shave his chest.
''It's a story for the grandkids,'' Mr. Yagudev said.
Although the Bodygroom is the size of a conventional trimmer, Mr. Yagudev said he manages to shave his own back because he has long arms, an impossible feat for many. In customer reviews of back-hair removal products on Amazon.com, some men describe their earlier MacGyver-worthy approaches to the task, like taping a razor to a spatula or affixing an electric shaver to a golf putter.
But some men have grown less sheepish about seeking help outside the home.
''Five years ago it was their wives and girlfriends who dragged them in, but now they come of their own volition,'' said Dr. Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass., who does laser hair removal.
Among her steadiest clients for back-hair laser removal are male actors, models and professional athletes, especially basketball players, Dr. Hirsch said. ''It's become more socially acceptable for men to care about their appearance,'' she said.
At the Grooming Lounge, a men's hair salon and spa with locations in Washington and McLean, Va., appointments for back waxes, which cost $70, have grown steadily more popular since 2002, when the business was started, said Michael Gilman, a founder.
''We're packed morning to night with back waxes,'' he said. It probably is a help that ESPN is always on and beer is served. But men can still be self-conscious, as Mr. Gilman discovered in the spa's early days, when he observed an employee greeting a client in the waiting room.
''He said, 'Hi, I'll be doing your back wax today,' and the look on the guy's face was horrified,'' Mr. Gilman said. ''Now we just say, 'My name is Mike, and I'll be providing your services today,' whether it's a haircut, shave, wax or manicure.''
Matt Qureshi, 35, who lives in Washington, gets his back waxed at the Grooming Lounge about three times a year.
''It's nice to go to a salon and be able to ask to have services done without there being a lot of women there and being put in an embarrassing situation,'' said Mr. Qureshi, who works for a technology and security company.
Sometimes he reconnects with fraternity buddies who used to call him Chewbacca.
''I'll be out boating with guys who have known me for a while, and they'll say, 'What happened?' '' Mr. Qureshi said. '' 'Did you shed or something?' ''

URL: http://www.nytimes.com

DAILY MAIL (London)

October 14, 2010 Thursday

ELSA MCALONAN, CHERRY PICKS THE BEST PRODUCTS TO KEEP THE BOYS LOOKING THEIR BEST

LENGTH: 1962 words
Men's beauty is big business the male grooming industry has grown
a staggering £22 million in the past year, with the market now worth £592 million. We ve tracked down some of the newest and most innovative products to tackle the most common male grooming issues.
For dry skin
Soap & Glory A Man's Got To Dew (£5.99, Boots)
Shaving makes men's skin more sensitive and prone to irritation than women's skin. While many men believe moisturising isn't necessary, either because it's not manly, or it clogs pores, it is just as vital for men to moisturise as it is for women. This gentle balm contains a razor-burn formula to soothe and protect.
For the sensitive man
Veet For Men Hair Removal Gel Cream (£6.65, Boots)
For the man who likes to be hair-free, but doesn't fancy waxing his legs. Specially formulated for men's tougher, but often sensitive skin, this is simple to use, mess-free and smells a lot better than hair removal creams used to.
For the bravest men
Nad's For Men Body Wax Strips (£8.99 for 20, amazon.co.uk)
And this is for the man not afraid to rip out his body hair. They work in the same way as wax strips for women, but with a stronger 'weave' to ensure hairs are removed from the roots. These strips promise to leave men hair-free for weeks.
For product-heavy hair
Superfish Cleanfish Extreme De-gunk Shampoo (£3.99, Boots)
From the great value Fish hair range, this new shampoo, which launched last month, helps to remove a build-up of products, leaving hair clean and shiny, and without the weighed-down feel. The range also includes Fish Paste Hardcore Hold Matt Effect Putty (£5.99), for a tousled, natural look.
For the eco-friendly man
Organic Blue Men's Bath Soak (£3.99, Waitrose and John Lewis)
This range has many innovative products that should have been thought of years ago. This bath soak contains lemongrass and eucalyptus to help you relax. Look out for the essential oils, including Energising Mood Blend (£8.95), for headaches and blocked sinuses and Restful Night Mood Blend (£8.95).
For perfect nails
Orly Nails For Males (£8.75 orlybeauty.co.uk)
Many more men are now having manicures and looking after their nails and Orly's treatment nail polish is made for them. The matte, natural finish is a combination top coat, base coat and strengthener, and there's no danger of it leaving nails shiny and feminine-looking Ñ it's been created to provide care and protection.
For bright eyes
Molton Brown Bright Vita Eye Energy Serum (£21, moltonbrown.co.uk)
Eye treatments are especially popular with men, and this light serum helps get rid of puffy eyes and dark circles, while working on fine lines. A reflecting complex also brightens the area around the eye without being too obvious.
For an instant pick-me-up
SKINN Fatigue Rescue (£26, 020 8997 8541)
A dermatology-led range formulated specifically for men, these products have a celebrity following. This acts as an intense night repairing anti-ageing cream, and makes the complexion brighter and more radiant. Look out also for SKINN Total Shave (£18), a combined shave cream and cleanser which moisturises and protects.
For the perfect hair cut
Corioliss Grand Prix Professional Hair Clippers (£49.99, hqman.com)
Hair clippers have never been glamorous, but these are designed in racing car colours, and look much more interesting than the barber-shop variety. A great present for the man who has everything.
For soft hands
ClarinsMen Active Hand Care (£12.50 clarins.com)
Men's hands can get dry and chapped, too, and this luxurious non-oily hand cream is specially developed for men who don't like the feeling of cream on their hands after applying it. It dries quickly, leaves no residue and helps calm irritations as well as nourishing and conditioning.
.
For clean pores
Sisley Buff & Wash Facial Gel (£61.50, harrods.com)
Exfoliating is just as important for men as it is for women. Scrubbing daily helps prevent ingrown hairs, spots and dull, dry skin. This unisex scrub uses natural plant extracts and essential oils to slough off dead skin cells, and used before shaving, it helps to lift hairs for a closer, cleaner shave.
For healthy hair and skin
Jason Shankey Expert Exfoliating Face and Scalp Scrub, 125ml (£15, jasonshankey.co.uk)
For wide-awake and glowing hair and skin, this works wonders. Ground olive stones remove dead skin cells, and improve the circulation in the face and scalp, to give a radiant glow.
For general grooming
Groom Mate Platinum Nose and Ear Hair Trimmer (£14.50, amazon.co.uk)
The one gadget every man should own is a nose and ear hair trimmer Ð and one that doesn't drag or pull the hairs. This cuts hair effectively and hygienically, meaning less pain and ingrown hairs.
For a healthy glow
Clinique Skin Supplies for Men Non-Streak Bronzer (£15.50, clinique.co.uk)
Part of Clinique's excellent Skin Supplies range for men, this bronzer builds colour gradually so there's no risk of turning orange overnight. It gives more of a glow than a tan, and can be used all year round for a healthy complexion.
For the follicly challenged
Crystal Clear No Shine Serum, (£42, crystalclear.co.uk)
Women have to deal with shiny faces, and the problem of having a shiny bald head can be just as difficult to solve. Traditionally, talcum powder has been used
men trying to tone down a shiny head, but Crystal Clear is a fast-absorbing, non-sticky, non-oily treatment, leaving head and face shine-free.
For the more mature man
Lancome Age Force (£50, lancome.co.uk)
Lancome has discovered that men's skin ages in five primary ways Ñ wrinkles, loss of firmness, larger pores, brown spots and more pronounced nose-to-mouth lines. This moisturiser, with SPF15, helps prevent signs of ageing and is light, non-oily and leaves no shiny residue.
For razor burn
Edwin Jagger Alum Block (£11, cupidandgrace.com)
AN impressive little block that looks like a crystalised stone, which when wet can be massaged into the face to stop bleeding from shaving nicks, acts as an antiseptic for razor burn, and is also a cooling skin balm.
For aches and pains (and man flu)
Jack Black Dragon Ice Relief & Recovery Balm (£17.50, mankind.co.uk)
Containing the intriguing-sounding Dragon's Blood and Willowherb, this is a great pain-relieving cream. Suitable for aching muscles, joint strains and general aches. It also promises to help stimulate the body's immune system, and accelerate healing.
For a year-round tan
He-Shi Express Liquid Tan for Face and Body (£20, he-shi.co.uk)
Self-tan is now hugely popular with men as they, too, become aware of the dangers of sunbathing. This range is unisex, and packaged for both men and women. The formula dries in two minutes and lasts up to five days. The colour can be darkened
applying more layers.
For the stylish man
Penhaligon's Shaving Soap with Bowl, £35 (penhaligons.com)
Traditional shaving soap is making a comeback, and it doesn't get any more classic than this gorgeous wooden bowl and soap from one of the oldest British brands. The soap comes in English Fern and Blenheim Bouquet and lathers to give a smooth, delicious-smelling shave.
For dandruff
REF Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (£7.50, hairtec.com)
This simple range from Swedish brand Ref is packaged exactly how men prefer Ñ fuss-free and sturdy. Containing Tamanu oil, which is known for its healing properties, it also contains an anti-dandruff ingredient. Recommended for use twice a week, it promises cleaner, healthier hair and scalp.
For soft feet
Men's Ped Egg (£9.99 Superdrug)
This ingenious little device is a hand-operated exfoliating tool to remove hard skin from feet. Women have been using them for years, but men get hard skin, too, and this one is designed to fit into a man's hand for easy use.
For the bargain hunter
Men's Matrix Aftershave Balm (£1.99, Tesco)
A brand-new range that is fantastic value, with every product priced at £1.99. The range includes a face scrub, moisturiser and an SPF 15 moisturiser. The aftershave balm calms and soothes skin after shaving with aloe vera and vitamin E, and helps prevent shaving rash and ingrown hairs. The range contains black pepper and smells delicious.
For youthful skin
Kiehl's Facial Fuel Age Combat Moisture Gel (£29.50 mankind.co.uk)
This anti-ageing moisturiser is so light it feels barely there, so it's perfect for men who don't want an oily residue. It promises to help improve the skin's elasticity and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It also promises to help with a sagging neck Ñ we're glad men have that worry, too!
For sporty types
Aromatherapy Associates De-Stress Muscle Bath & Shower Oil (£34.75, aromatherapyassociates.com)
A glorious bath and shower oil with lavender, rosemary and ginger essential oils that works wonders on muscle and joint aches and pains Ñ great for after sport. The oils are also warming, helping to soothe tired, heavy limbs.
For the man who likes a routine
Trilogy Natural Actives For Men Smooth Shave Cream (£12, John Lewis and Boots)
The Trilogy range for men is just as gentle on the skin as the women's range. And there's a step-by-step programme for men to follow. Cleanse with Face Wash and Scrub, shave with Smooth Shave Cream, soothe with Aftershave Balm, and then moisturise with the SPF15 moisturiser. Couldn't be simpler.
For the high-tech man
SureMen Maximum Protection Aerosol Deodorant (£4.49, Boots)
A deodorant offering up to 50 per cent more protection than some others, as it uses an odour-fighting technology. Microscopic fragrance capsules sit on the skin's surface, and when you perspire, the capsules are dissolved, releasing the fragrance.
For the man who smells divine
Kings Faraday Anti-Perspirant Deodorant (£3.49, (Boots)
This new range is well priced and smells fabulous. Three collections with a range of products in each ensure every man's taste is catered for. The Faraday collection is scented with black pepper and sandalwood, and is inspired
a clean-cut, modern-day dandy style.
For the shaving fan
RazorPit (£19.95, razorpit.com)
A brilliant device to make razor blades last longer, and ensures blades are clean and sharp. Blunt blades are caused
clumps of hair, skin and soap, and this Danish invention means the life of a blade can be prolonged
up to 150 shaves, potentially saving a fortune in replacements. It's essentially a mat to clean the blade, which is simple and effective.
For the wash and go man
A'kin PureMan Energising All-In-One Hair and Body Wash (£8.49, mypure.co.uk)
Made from organic ingredients, the A'Kin range is refreshing and very manly. This wash is gentle enough to use on the body as well as hair, and smells delicious. Look out for A'Kin Dual Action Face Wash and Scrub (£10.99) which is great for everyday use.
For the sensitive man
The Shave Doctor Smooth It Over Moisturazor (£8.95, John Lewis and Superdrug)
This range from the Shave Doctor is
a man who knows what he's talking about. Creator Mark Sproston has experienced all the shaving problems men can have, and has come up with a treatment range that really works. When men wet shave, they remove up to two layers of skin, which can lead to dry patches. This moisturiser helps to replenish the skin's moisture and guard against dryness and premature ageing.
For shaving bumps
Merkur 15C Safety Razor (£21.45, executive-shaving.co.uk)
Safety razors are becoming more popular as two-thirds of men deal with frequent shaving bumps, rashes and ingrown hairs. The safety razor uses one sharp cutting edge, compared with multi-blade razors with up to five blades, which can drag the skin as they quickly become blunt. And replacement blades are cheaper than multi-blade razors.
Men's beauty is big business Ñ the male grooming industry has grown
a staggering £22 million in the past year, with the market now worth £592 million. We've tracked down some of the newest and most innovative products to tackle the most common male grooming issues.

Digital Journal

September 24, 2010 Friday 4:29 PM EST

Three Million Men in Britain Admit to Wearing Make Up

LENGTH: 279 words
Sep. 24, 2010 (Digital Journal delivered by Newstex) --
More than 3 million men in the United Kingdom admit to wearing make up according to a new survey about male grooming conducted by consumer research company Opinium.

The survey was carried out last month and questioned 3,813 men aged 18 and over. According to the results, one in seven of them admitted to wearing some type of make up. The most popular products among men were hair dye and eye cream. Others admitted to wearing mascara, lipstick, nail varnish and face powder. One quarter of the men said they wore make up on a weekly basis and 13% of those surveyed said that they wore make up everyday. It might not come as a surprise to some people but the survey also found that men are much quicker at getting ready to go out than women, taking a little over twenty minutes on average, the average woman is said to take over forty minutes to get ready for a night out. Out of the men surveyed, 20% will wear make up to their place of work and a quarter of them would feel uncomfortable going out for a drink without it. 35% of men said that they borrow their make up products from their other halves. Women said that if they needed to borrow make up they would prefer to do so from their friends or parents. James Endersby, Managing Director of Opinium Research said: '"There is an increasing trend that men are just as aware about their appearance as women and like to take care of the way they look" "We're living in an age where male celebrities are seen wearing 'manscara' and 'guyliner' and everybody thinks it normal. It looks like metrosexual man is here to stay."
Newstex ID: DIJO-0001-49045511

Ask the expert #3: The Hair Guru - Men's Health
Leading grooming expert Jason Shankey answers those burning barnet questions

• Email
• Print
• RSS
• Share
•
•

I have thinning hair. Is there anything I can do to make it look a bit thicker?
“My best advice is to keep your hair short and neat. This will make your hair appear much thicker and healthier and will disguise your hair loss. Trying to hide thinning hair by growing it longer only draws more attention to it (remember Arthur Scargill?).
Also, ask your barber or hairdresser to cut your hair bluntly as this will also help to make your hair look thicker. Don’t let the stylist ‘point cut’ or cut your hair with ‘thinning scissors’.
Thickening lotions work really well with thinning hair. It’s important to remember, however, that you need to blow dry thickening lotions into the hair so that they swell and create the thickening effect.”
Do I really need to use a hair conditioner?
“Conditioner smoothes out your hair and can help repair damage so it's best reserved for dry and long or thick and coarse hair. There isn’t much point in using it on short hair unless it is dry, damaged or coloured – in which case a conditioner formulated specially for this purpose is recommended. If you’re going to have a lot of sun exposure, conditioner will help keep your hair moisturised and this should help prevent it from drying out.”
What's the best way to actually get the style you want when you go to the hairdressers?
“Your best bet is to bring in a picture of what you want. Otherwise, ensure that your hairdresser gives you a thorough consultation and that you have both agreed on what has been discussed, prior to the hairdresser taking the scissors to your hair.”
How often should I get my hair cut?
“This depends on how thick or how quickly your hair grows. The average time between visits for neat and tidy maintenance is 4–6 weeks.
I have a really round face. Is there a haircut that can make my face look slimmer?
“Shaped and sculpted sideburns below the cheekbone can help make your face look thinner, as can wearing your hair longer at the front, falling over the sides of your face. The idea here is to use your hair to frame your cheeks to give the illusion of a narrower face.”
I wash my hair every day – sometimes twice – and if I miss a day it gets really greasy. I don't want to have to wash it so much so is there anything I can do?
“Wash your hair with lukewarm water and shampoo your scalp with the palms of your hands very gently – don't use your fingertips. This helps to reduce the stimulation of your sebaceous glands, which produce the oil. Make sure you use a shampoo for oily hair and use a dry shampoo in between washes. Also, use a styling product such as my Jason Shankey Expert Styling Paste (£16, jasonshankey.com/expert) which contains an ingredient to absorb excess oil from your scalp.”
My hair's really frizzy – what can I do to tame it?
“Shampoo and condition your hair with products designed specifically for dry hair and experiment with a leave-in conditioner. You could also consider a chemical straightening treatment, but it's important to ask your stylist's advice about whether this is possible or not, based on the health of your hair.”